Española Island — Where the Waved Albatross Nests and Tortoises Were Saved

Española stands apart from other islands due to one single fact: every waved albatross (Phoebastria irrorata) on this planet was born on this island and will return here to breed. Approximately 12,000 breeding pairs gather on a windswept plateau at Punta Suárez every April for eight months, making it the most extraordinary avian spectacle in the Pacific.

The waved albatross is a large seabird, with its wingspan reaching up to 2.4 metres. It got its name from the wave-like pattern across its back and wings. Outside the nesting season, these birds soar effortlessly across the eastern tropical Pacific for weeks at a time. They only return to Española to mate with their lifelong partners. Suárez Point’s southern cliffs provide them the long, unobstructed runway they need, as these birds are unable to take off from flat ground without assistance from the wind.

Courtship on Española is theatrically unique. Pairs perform an intricate sequence of displays, almost like a ritual. Sky-pointing, bill circling, clacking, and a kind of slow-motion dance that ornithologists have documented as one of the most complex courtship behaviors in birds. Visitors can enjoy the remarkable cacophony of deep bill-clapping, low calls, and wings shuffling. Chicks, covered in dark brown down feathers, are present from parts of July up until December.

Española’s albatross population is entirely at sea between January and March. Visitors who arrive during those months will find quiet clifftops. The breeding season, from April through December, is when the colony is active, and visitors can witness the wonderful courtship display.

The Galápagos marine iguana is present almost everywhere in the archipelago. However, the Española subspecies (Amblyrhynchus cristatus venustissimus) does something unique that others don’t. During breeding season, the males don their mating colors of vivid reds and greens. Because of this, local guides nicknamed them “Christmas iguanas”. The timing varies, but visitors who arrive between December and March can most likely find themselves the splash of colors on brightest display. Although hints of the red-and-green breeding colors can be seen throughout much of the year.

Suárez Point is home to a large nesting colony of blue-footed boobies (Sula nebouxii). These birds’ courtship dance is one of the most entertaining wildlife encounters in the Galápagos. From a respectable distance, visitors can watch as male blue-footed boobies parade their vivid turquoise-blue feet in front of females in an unhurried, deliberate strut. Since the vibrancy of the feet is a sign of health, males with a brighter blue have higher chances of attracting mates.

Nazca boobies (Sula granti), formerly classified as Masked boobies, were reclassified as a separate species. These birds also nest on Española, with their characteristic white plumage, orange-yellow bill, and distinctive black mask around the face. Española supports both booby colonies, allowing for direct comparisons in the field. This is among the many reasons why naturalist guides consider Suárez Point an impeccable visitor site.

The Galápagos hawk (Buteo galapagoensis) is endemic to the archipelago and is listed as “Vulnerable”. It makes more regular appearances on Española than on the other islands, as the island’s open terrain and abundant prey provide a good base. Española reportedly has one of the largest populations of the Galápagos hawk in the park. They often perch in the open and don’t pay humans any mind, making close observations fairly easy.

On the northeastern side of Española is Gardner Bay, which hosts a large sea lion (Zalophus wollebaeki) colony. It is one of the finest in the archipelago for observing the sea lions’ social dynamics up close. Galápagos sea lions are present year-round, with pups being born at varied points throughout the year. Galápagos doves (Zenaida galapagoensis) are common throughout the island and are known for their tame nature, often walking right up to visitors.